How Long Will The Washy Swell Last?

[Cazza]

hey guys,

i am just wondering how long this swell will last, cuz iam probly gonna go for a session on friday, and i wanna know if it will still be there.

[thermalben]

Cazza - there'll be plenty of swell on Friday. It'll start winding down later today and through Thursday, but the winds should be good for the rest of the week and into the weekend.

[xfactor]

are the points crowded on a day like today/yesterday?

it seems real tricky getting out... need paddling power to keep in the line-up and not get washed away down the point.

I wouldnt mind seeing kirra today, should put on a good show!

[yewwww!]

on friday, i think may be a better day to come down. the swell would have droped a bit but hopefully we lose some of these really strong winds.

i was at kirra this morning and it wasnt all that great. its wasent a really straight line, it was kind of all over the place. still worth a look though. later,

[tshelper]

Down off Kirra today was pretty damn good. Nice big sucky barrels.
A bit smaller at Greenmount. Snapper had some big bombs still coming thru.

Perfect conditons today blue sky, light winds, no sweep, big swell. Mega crowds down there though I would forget it on the weekend.


Anyone go TOS or any beachbreaks today?

[bazzas]

VrK

[bazzas]

Anyone go TOS or any beachbreaks today?

yeah broady this mornin bout 9 through 11ish was pretty fun. lengthy lulls made the paddle back out pretty easy. nice big empty peaks L & R's. no one as far as the eye could see. farrkn stoked!!! :D[/quote]

[Cazza]

Down off Kirra today was pretty damn good. Nice big sucky barrels.
A bit smaller at Greenmount. Snapper had some big bombs still coming thru.

Perfect conditons today blue sky, light winds, no sweep, big swell. Mega crowds down there though I would forget it on the weekend.


Anyone go TOS or any beachbreaks today?

i dunno ay, i tend to disagree, i was out there and the sweep was strong. like really strong....like there was a group of us who paddled out at snapper and after 15 minutes were at kirra. thats just not cricket. it was such a bitch of a paddle too.

[xfactor]

sweep sucks!

i hate that walk from north kirra back to snapper. you gotta be careful with your wave selection when you are at rainbow. and drop-in's WILL happen just because everyone elses getting swept too. you should always have two cars. one at kirra and one at snapper.

how have the arvo sessions been lately with the SE/20knots? any barrels?

oh talkin about barrels, how do they happen? is it happened when the wind hits the wave face hard (offshore) or does it just happen when theres a nice sucky bank? because it seems that the wave almost always barrels at d-bah near the middle (shorebreak), sth straddy, greenmount, burleigh, kirra and the spit (the jetty side, not the rockwall). left of the jetty seems real fast always. it peaks very quickly then it just dumps. whereas rockwall side is more mellow

tell me. is shorebreak sorta like reef-break? it is always fast breaking, barreling and real shallow.

[tshelper]

I aint the strongest paddler but i quite easily sat out from the Kirra groin for at least 45 minutes.

There was a sweep in close to the shore but out back from the break it was fine - you just don't want to get caught in the wash for too long.

Compared to the normal sweep when it is big it was nothing. Must have had something to do with the swell direction.

I paddled out from Snapper and got down to Kirra surf club about 2.5 hours later.

[yewwww!]

xfactor,
no waves dont barrel because the offshore wind hits it. a wave will throw more depending on how shallow it is. what makes the wave form up and "suck" is when it comes from the deeper water into the shallower water. look at shark island. the wave comes in from a deep bit of the ocean and sudenly is pushed up on to a stupidly shallow rock ledge. thats what makes it so heavy and sucky. it almost appears that on reef breaks, the wave comes out of nowhere. but yeah that why on bigger days strad isent as heavy. was anyone surfing it on sat? when it gets over that certan size (about 4ft) it breaks futher out and doesnt hit all its good banks, so it makes it heaps fatter. yeah but thats what makes waves barrel, all depends on how much pressure it has behind it. well hope that helped. later

[xfactor]

that was very helpful thanks yewwww. But how come narrowneck doesnt barrel all the time then? and wouldnt it be easy to create a artificial reef that breaks perfect? and why is offshore wind better than onshore?

i sometimes tend to hesistate to go for a wave on big days cuz i think its gonna barrel when it starts breaking and get chucked over the fall. maybe i need to grow some more balls.. hehehe

[yewwww!]

nazz doesnt have a consistant nice break because when they were constructing the reef, they didnt have surfing in mind at all. the idea of it wasent to create a nice break that will just suck up and throw nice thick barrels, actully it was almost the opisite. the reef was designed and put in to place as an experiment to stop erosoin along our coast line. the reef more acts as a wave break island in a sence. it breaks the wave further out from the shore, therefor reducing its power when it comes into the shore break.

the idea of making a artifical reef that breaks nice and heavy like a real reef is a realistic idea. the only thing is the cost. the government wouldnt dish out the bob to put in a fake reef that is probably worse for the coast line and, has no benifit to them. only to surfers. making a good artifical reef isent exactly a back yard job either. the reef would have to have a nice shape so it could pump out the juice like needle dicks and tweed bombie and other semi gold coast reefs do.

i dont exactly know what your trying to say on the going over the falls thing. but if do have trouble finding the marble's to take off over the bigger ledge, the aswer is suprising sipple. push your self. dont hesitate at what your doing. just paddle as hard as you can and treat it as if it were the ordanry 3ft point break. when u start to think and hesitate, thats when u get hurt. oh well enough typing for me, later

[Gary B]

OH how good were those good old days ay!

[what_a_bogan]

omg yeeew you never give this good advice these days hahaha... that was a funny read.

[yewwww!]

yeah whats going on here. how old is this thread????? doesnt sound like me at all.

[Thorno]

xfactor is a pretty smart guy.....

[kempo]

look at the dates on the first five posts in this thread.
someone must have discovered how to time travel.

freaky freaky stuff

[Fisheye]

I agree with yeww however, firstly nazza reef was setup for surfing, it was just poorly executed and bags have sunk, split etc. Secondly erosion will be stoped regardless on how heavy the wave was, actually you would find that erosion would decrease further if nazza was more an intense Island setup. This would be because more of the power of the wave would be swallowed up, and if you had it a bit more like a barrier reef/bomby you could have a nice little lagoon between the reef and the beach for the kiddies to play in. Now thats tourism ;)

They have done a good artificial reef in New Zealand

www.mountreef.co.nz


Im still partial to my idea, have a slab artifical reef with big groins on both sides that are 10m above sealevel and 50m past the reef. Have a sail spread across the ends of the groins to protect from onshores, and maybe even big mother fans on the beach to blow offshores.

But that aint tourism, that million dollar Donald Trump ship right thurr mofo's

[yewwww!]

when the reef was firstly being designed, the government claimed that one of its purposes was to create a world class surf break. that was mainly to gain the support of the surfers though... it was never really intended to make some heaving reef. yes like fisheye said some of the bags sank/split whatever but even if they stayed how they were intended to be, it wouldnt of been some nuts reef like that one in NZ. one of the reasons was insurance. you would get some clown going out there, getting closed out and hurting themselves then having the government up for a heafty compensation payout. the tourist attraction wasnt the reef, it was having the beach still there. the fear of the second seaway forming and narrowneck dissapearing was well worth spending the however many million it cost to build the reef...