Steep waves

[xfactor]

Hey all!

I was just wondering is there a special trick to get on those real steep waves? (either being too inside or a tube from the start) i have got on those waves before but i still can't seem to figure out. i see people tucking in the board and paddling 2-3 strokes and they're on the wave, but i dont usually get on cuz the wave is too fast/about to break too quick.

[yewwww!]

it all comes from practise mate. i dont really quite understand what your saying but what i think is that when your on the late take off you seem to either eat the face or get eaten just as you tuck in?

[Ranga]

hey mate im a booger but i reckon i understand what you are talking about cause its kinda the same with us. i feel the easiest way to ride those "steep" waves is to get into them early before they get real sucky and then it is easy to set up and and get your line in. As you get more familar riding these waves you will be able to just have a couple paddles and drop into them. The key thing is practice mate

[xfactor]

thanks guys. i had some practice today and i think im getting the hang of it now. i was at currumbin getting barelled :)

it's weird cuz the ones that barrel the hardest are the ones that double up or the ones without a peak that just suddenly breaks when it hits the bank. regardless, i had a lot of fun. out the back at the alley had some 1.5m waves, but i liked the fast barrels on the rightside of the rivermouth.

by the way, i thought it was easy for boogers to get those steeper waves, or they ONLY go for those steepers. i learnt to angle my board so i dont nose dive! the key was to paddle 110%. im gonna invent a boogieboard/surfboard with a small motor on it so it helps paddling out/paddlign for the waves.

[yewwww!]

nar the really really steep waves arnt that easy on a boog. when its small yeah but when it gets bigger its pretty hard aye. when u stand up's take off, u can grab rail strainght away and be inside about 1 second after u stand up. with booging, on the bigger wave you have to take pretty much the whole face befor u can pull a sharp bottom turn, by then on the late take off u usually get lipped on the head. not allways full easy for boogers. but when its smaller yeah getting shacked is no probs. later

[slicktrigger]

Get off your computer and go surfing.

[xfactor]

ya! it's hard when i dont live at the coast and i can't go down every day.. burleighcam is the closest thing that brings surf to me

[yewwww!]

just got the new board and steamer. heading in for some good winter surfing now. yewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww. the water is getting a big of a nip now. hardly ever surf in a steamer but this winter i feel i really need it. later

[betelnut]

paddle your ring out and get to your feet faster, don't take off too straight.

[liquid]

My suggestion for late takeoffs would be:

1. Get to you feet as quick as possible. Its a hell of a lot easier to make it standing up than on your knees / stomach. Beacuse the wave is steep you should have no problems getting on it so you should be able to jump up earlier than normal - i.e. with little or no paddling.

2. When you get you feet shift your weight to the back of the board. In most cases the wave will (try) throw you forward (ass over tit) so you should compensate by leaning and/or moving back on the board.

3. Late takeoffs require quicker reactions and balance so really the best tip is practise make perfect. Don't be a afraid to wipeout 10 times before making it once. Everytime you do bail think about how you bailed and try and compensate next time.

Enjoy!

[xfactor]

sweet as! it'd suck going ass over head on a 6ft wave though :D it's not that we get anymore than 1ft these days

[hollowpoint]

man, steep waves are the most fun once you nail 'em. Just paddle accross when you're catching it in the direction you're going to go. Not too much or you'll slide out but just enough to keep ahead of the lip. Commit yourself totally, don't think about bailing and when you get to the bottom, do a big bottom turn in front of the wave for speed, then turn vertical toward the lip with your weight forward, just before the lip, transfer your weight to the back, swing your arms and upper body toward the beach, bend your knees right up and bring your hips around really hard to meet your upper body, then straighten your legs, put your weight forward and do it again. That should give you some phat spray.